Archive for August, 2008

Independence

August 21, 2008

Independence Day was our last full day in Chennai. It was SUCH a great way to spend it! We really saw an expression of the people’s love for their country, which I’ve always felt is more lacking in the UK (not wholly a bad thing!). The school had celebrations in the morning: a march-past, traditional and modern dance and music, speeches (including one by me and Sam!), and, cutest of all, some younger students dressed up as historical Indian freedom fighters and gave a short play/ performance about how they’d saved “mother India”. The patriotism displayed did seem quite positive. It encouraged everyone to work hard for each other and their country, rather than only thinking of themselves. I’m generally against patriotism because, well, why put people in your country before people in other countries? Why not put the most needy first? But, if patriotism makes people less self-centered then that’s a step up I think.

In true Indian fashion, the guest of honour, a local journalist, invited us back to her house for half an hour after the celebrations. And, in true Indian fashion, that half an hour turned into two hours, including the traditional force-feeding ritual, trying on her weddding dress (see pictures below), and visiting her Jain temple to chat to the Saints there. WOW!

It was SO amazing to be able ot chat to the saints. They were totally commited to non-violence: they wore masks over their mouths to stop themselves ingesting and therefore killing microbes in the air; they don’t use anything electrical, because they think the electric currents could harm microbes in the air; they don’t even cut their hair incase it harms animals- they pull overy hair out by hand. To be honest, their methods seemed futile on the whole, and they meant that the saints could do no charity-style work(they can’t even handle money). I think they’re right that it’s wrong to harm sentient beings, but sometimes you have to harm some to help others. However, their total commitment to their belief in non-violence was totally inspiring.

I’ve left Chennai now and am back in Delhi, spending 2 weeks with KPMG. We’re enjoying Delhi so much more this time around, because we have the time, energy, freedom, understanding and confidence to really go out and enjoy the place. I’m learning tonnes from KPMG too. It’s turning me slowly into a profit-driven, heartless capitalist- I can feel it already. I’ve already begun buying loads of cheap, beautiful jewellery to sell back in the UK, and learning about how KPMG goes about advising businesses is giving me advice way above the necessary level!

OK, signing off, finally. PCs are in hot demand here. Again, thank you for all your comments and keep challenging me to look deeper!

Yours

Sally

Photos

August 19, 2008

Here are some photos to help illustrate my Chennai experience. They’re write a muddle- sorry!- but it saves me from writing tonnes and tonnes about every little thing I’ve done. More in-depth stuff is in the post above :-)

ps. I originally wrote a tired, slightly moany post, including allusions to the cold-tomato-juice-style showers at the hotel and the poor service in the restaurant, but I deleted it cos it was kind of pointless! That’s why I have two seemingly random comments below :-)

Observing predjudice?

August 10, 2008

So, so far I’ve been very positive about India. I think that when you’re encountering something new, it’s best to be positive and welcoming to it. That way, you don’t shut it out- you keep learning and in time this reveals the more negative aspects too. If you accept your immediate gut fear/ repulsion, you shut something out and stop learning about it too soon.

So there are a few negative things I’d like to talk about now I’ve been here for a while. One thing I’ve found increasingly uncomfortable is the attitude displayed towards people with white skin. Don’t get me wrong, people are EXTREMELY friendly and welcoming to us, and many of the children are very charming and have lots of interesting, genuine questions to ask us. But sometimes I feel we are welcomed TOO MUCH! It can start to feel like hero worship! For example, the younger children all want our autographs, and whenever we walk down the corridor or sit down somewhere public in the school we’re hounded by huge groups of them begging “Please! Please miss! Please, autograph, please!”; it’s very hard to make them go away! They’ve never seen foreigners like us in their school, so I understand that it’s an exciting novelty for them, but I don’t like to give them autographs, because it encourages them to see us as some sort of higher beings, not students just like them. I wouldn’t mind if they were just curious, but the way they BEG for autographs puts us on another level to them. It seems to reduce them, and they’re such amazing, lovely, cute, normal children. My friends and the teachers say that if we were black visitors from Africa we wouldn’t get the same attentions.

We watched a very popular Bollywood film last night called “Singh is King” which increased my concern. Firstly, all the actors were (as is usual in all the media here), very pale-skinned. There were a lot of half-naked ladies, and all looked Western, some having unnaturaly white skin, as if they’d just rolled in talcum powder! Most Indians walking down the street are actually far darker-skinned than I’d realised- definatley closer to black than white. But white skin is the ideal. There’s even a product called “Fair and Lovely” which I’ve seen in most beauty shops, which whitens your skin.

In some ways I find it funny, because in the UK we all want to look tanned! In place of “Fair and Lovely”, we have fake tan. And you don’t catch many pale-white girls flashing their bodies in films and the media. We both want to look like the other! Why can’t we just appreciate the beauty of what we have? So, it’s certainly not just an Indian ‘illness’.

However, there are associations with white skin that are quite openly believed in society here, whereas in the UK I think we’ve learned to either challenge our natural prejudices, or not to express them for them sake of being PC. WHen we asked the children in the school what they thought people in Britain were like, they said, Kind, Friendly, Nice, Fair (skinned). OK ok, so we were standing just in front of them looking clearly British, but others have confirmed that we’re seen as very polite and nice (if a little snobbish!). And they all think we’re proud of our white skin! They laugh when I tell them about the fake-tan craze! So, I suppose I don’t really know what to make of it. One kid in the class actually said he saw British people as “the enemy”, which was slightly worrying! Others see us as lacking spirituality, morals, and fulfilment, and not taking marriage and relationships seriously. So there are two sides to every coin!

The movie “SIngh is King” made me upset for other reasons though. In this area of India, the vast majority of women cover up, and don’t wear clothes that are tight enough to show your shape. So it was a shock in the film when every single woman was scantily-clad, always showing either cleavage or most of their legs, and usually showing both… in slow motion… with their boobs jiggling as they ran… with sexy music on in the background… while the men behind me in the audience hooted and whistled. Ergh, it made my skin crawl. And the whole movie was carried by the men, who had nearly all the lines and the only distinct personalities. The women were there to be oggled or fought over. The way it portrayed women just felt horrible to watch. I was looking out for exceptions to the rule, but really couldn’t find any. Oh, excpet for one, who was 50ish, fat, and the mother of the bride-to-be. Even she didn’t have much of a role except selling flowers and crying a bit. I can’t tell if I’ve just become overly sensitive since living in this more conservative area, or if it really is a serious issue. What do you think?

And the caste system still exists here, whatever people say, but I won’t go into that now because this post is lacking balance! So, on a brighter note, I went to the zoo on Saturday and saw 2 baby elephants and a baby monkey and some chimpanzees and a hippopotamus and, best of all, a little mouse gaily skipping along the back of a python and practically giving it a dental check-up, without suffering a scratch!

Hmmm. Doesn’t quite balance out the negative. Well… we went on Chennai Live (a local radio station) for an hour and it was REALLY FUN, then we called up another station while they were playing retro songs like Aerosmith, Guns and Roses, George Michael! (It was like the old Gits’ disco, Mum!) And, I have a companion staying with me with my host family, because my partner Sam was feeling home sick on here own! It’s much more fun when there are two of us!

There we go, that’ll do :-) If you have any points, questions, comments, please do leave them. Especially, I think a few people who live in India have been reading this, so I’d be interested to here what you have to say about my observations. Am I jumping to conclusions too soon?

Thanks, all the best, and kind regards,

Sally

Chennai Week 1

August 4, 2008

Hello there! I can’t believe I’ve not posted since arriving in Chennai, many apologies!

We have again been really busy, but our activities have been fun and Chennai’s a beautiful, more laid-back place than Delhi. It’s a busy, bustling city, but it’s also by the beach and quite well-spread out (again, this is all in comparison to Delhi, so take it with a pinch of salt), so there’s a much less claustrophobic atmosphere. There are also fewer beggars, and fewer street venders to chase you as you wander about, which contributes to a far nicer atmosphere.

We’ve done so much I can’t really do it justice without writing a painfully long post. We’ve visited a traditional Indian crafts village, where we saw traditional south indian dancing, houses and crafts, and enjoyed some delicious s.indian food, eaten in the traditional way with fingers, using a banana leaf as a plate! I also had my palm read, and had a parrot tell me about my personality (using tarrot card type things). Neither were very accurate but I smiled along… :-) People pay a lot of money to see such mystics here and have a lot of trust in their “art”.

The whole country is very religious though. For example, since moving in with my host family yesterday afternoon (it’s 10:30am now) I have prayed 3 times, even though they know I’m not religious! It just seems to be what you do. And everywhere you have to respect religious customs, like taking your shoes off in front of temples, touching your elders’ feet to receive their blessings, and receiving bindi’s on your forehead. When I told my host family I wasn’t religious they seemed to be hiding their distaste and almost fear!

The family is also a very important part of a person’s identity here; when you meet someone new, the questions that follow “What is your name?” and “Where are you from?” are invariably “What does your father do?” and “What does your mother do?”. You are inseperable from your family identity. This is shown through the remnants of the caste system- people still speak their caste’s mother tongue, and generally marry within their inherited caste- and even in Bollywood films, no character is introduced without the audience also being introduced to their parents and siblings. So when I tell people my parents don’t live together and have their own boyfriends/ girlfriends I’m also met with an edge of fear and distaste! (Yeah, thanks you two!)

The whole culture around marriage and family life seems to be very different- more conservative- to that in the UK. Oficially, people DON’T date, at least while they’re of school age. Officially, they wait until they have foud someone they believe to be suitable for marriage before they begin any serious/ sexual relationship with someone of the opposite sex. Of course, what actually happens is quite clearly different from this, and lots of the girls I’ve met at school get a tellingly mischevous glint in their eyes when I ask if they’ve got boyfriends! They also tell me their parents don’t know, and laugh as if this fact should be obvious. Basically, similar things go on, but it’s all hidden from your elders.

I’ve learnt a lot from my 2 days in the school here in Chennai. One thing I’ve learnt is to feel fear! These students are SO bright and SO ambitious and enthusiastic. We just don’t measure up in the UK. The 3 year olds can understand the teacher’s english perfectly, and count at least to 10 in English. The 5 year olds seem very comfortable speaking English in class, and by 8 they’re reading English poems unaided. The 15/16 year olds are doing binomial expansions and other AS level work that we only did aged 17, and their mental maths is really top notch too! We visited the IIT (Indian Institute of Technology) last week too; it has 4000 undergraduates, who generaly have to score above 97% in all school subjects, and pass a stringent entrance exam, to even have a chance of getting a place. Given that many university graduates are still paid peanuts in relation to English wages, it’s understandable that more and more Western countries are outsourcing (moving their business operations) to India and other similar countries.

This has been quite a factual blog hasn’t it? I don’t want to just tell you what I’ve been up to because I don’t know what you’ll really get out of it.I’ll write more about my impressoins of my host family later, but I can say now that they are ABSOLUTELY lovely people, and I feel really lucky to have been put with them. They’re very intelligent and the dad runs a very successful business. They’re Jains and believe in non-violence and non-harm to animals, as well as truth, tolerance and pretty much any favourable values you can think of! On the down side, the rain has brought mosquitos into my roo there, so I have about 30 bites already. Aiich!

OK, finally, you’ll be relieved to know, I’ve finished! Yay! Hope you are well, and please leave any comments you’d like to make below; I love reading them all!

Yours

Sally

ps I lied about finishing, sorry! I have loads of photos and videos which I’ll try to upload tonight or tomorrow. That’s it now, honest!